This was a common repair on vehicles of that vintage. If necessary, substitute the colors given above for whatever colors are appropriate for the wires you have. The double wire button will require grounding the extra wire to the chassis or some part of the metal frame. Pushing the horn button then grounds that horn ring to the the metal on the steering wheel. The horn is ground to the frame.
As for the horn you could just run a wire from the battery terminals with an inline button to make it work. You might have to slit the loom to locate it. I finally figured it out by trial and error :confused: Lets see if this works. Hot wire from fuse box to horn switch, to terminal on horn. I would have thought that by now you would have found a club or at least other people who are interested in vehicles like yours. Oh, I guess that depends if the 56 is the same.
Some background: I just moved to texas where they require vehicle inspections. Run a wire from terminal 86 to ground negative. Raise the hood and locate the original equipment horn. So i'm wondering, do i really need this relay? That group of wires runs to one of the terminals on the horn. I did this once to pass an inspection.
If you take the horn button off there should be a wire that is or was or should be attached to it. I would avoid opening up the steering wheel, but thats just my squeemishness around airbag systems, although I don't know if your car has a driver airbag so it may be clear. There should be a brown switched 12V wire going to the other terminal on the horn. You may have one of those, or a dusl note horn. As these bikes have rubber mounted bars, you need a connection from the bars to the chassis for this to work. Here is the common horn relay wiring. Locate a place under the hood away from the exhaust manifold or moving engine parts.
The other lead should be routed forward into the engine compartment to the relay. Find a good spot to cut the wire with wire strippers. The proper way would be to look up the wiring diagram in your car and find which wire in the harness corresponds to the horn 12v supply it may be tied to some other 12v line - like internal illumination and which wire corresponds to the horn, -tie the two together with a switch and you are good to go. Run battery power into terminal 87 on the relay and run from terminal 30 to the horn. Follow this wire back toward the dashboard as far as you can. It clamped to the steering column.
Find a grommet in the firewall and push the wire through. Although I posted the schematic more to explain how a relay works, it also shows that power from the horn is on its own fused circuit, separate from the ignition switch. If you are trying to use the original horn relay it won't work. About the Author Mike Frees is an I. Take an in-line fuse, with wires attached at both ends, and place it between the cut wire. Purchase your universal horn button kit.
Connect my single horn wire to one of the 2 terminals on the new horn. Note whether you want a double wire horn button or a single wire button. If a spare 20-amp fuse is available in the engine compartment's fuse box you can use that. Not hard with a test light or meter to see if its working or not. Connect the eyelet to it, and screw the bolt or screw back in with a socket or screwdriver. The ignition switch in this diagram only powers the switch and the low-current side of the relay. Be careful not to drill into any component on the other side of the dashboard.
It is a 56 with the original 12 volt system, and it still has the horn relay. The single wire button requires that you mount the button directly into the metal of the dashboard frame or some other metal source. Look for a good ground source underneath the dash, such as a small nut or bolt attached to the frame. Bolt new 2 terminal horn to radiator support that's where the old one was. There will be only one wire attached to a tang protruding from the horn, which will be the hot wire.